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Slimmer Cuts, Belts, Bow Ties Mark a Return to Definition
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 Samantha Thompson Smith - Raleigh News & Observer
NEW YORK -- Fashion Week is only half over, but already a few trends have become obvious: The waist is back, and the dress is here to stay -- at least through next summer.
While the catwalks are still crowded with billowy dresses and maternity-like tops, more designers seem to be trying hard to slim it down, with skinny belts and cloth ties that are finally bringing definition back.
Nicole Miller had several blouses with bow ties around the waist. Tracy Reese and Abaete had high-waisted pants. Erin Fetherston did a high-waisted short. Badgley Mischka put a belt on almost all their pencil skirts. And Lela Rose belted everything from sheaths to cape dresses.
Sometimes it wasn't as obvious. The cuts were more subtle, made to more closely fit the body, giving off a more natural, feminine look that just seems easier to wear. Vera Wang, however, stuck to her traditional relaxed silhouettes as part of an effort to keep a "nonchalance" feel to the collection. She paired an overall top with cargo boy shorts. She made draped toga dresses from sheer viscose silk jersey. And she had peasant tops in poly silk twill.
Wang's Roman-inspired runway looks might not be for you, but a more watered down Wang might be. Her more affordable casual chic collection, called Simply Vera, hit Kohl's stores Sunday.
One trend Wang didn't run from was the overwhelming use of the dress. For the third season, dresses continued to be the single most popular look on the runways. One change is that instead of trapeze dresses, we're seeing more sheaths and other shapely, ladylike silhouettes. But unlike the past several seasons, when some designers only sent dresses down the runways, we're seeing more pants, suits, separates -- and even a few jumpsuits -- to break up the monotony.
Among those keeping the dress alive was Lela Rose, who has always been strong in that department. The two Hepburns collided to make up her collection -- mixing the best of sporty Katherine with the always feminine Audrey.
Rose seemed as if she had fun designing the collection. There was plenty of experimentation, layering fabrics and textures you wouldn't normally think would go together. For instance, she put a persimmon corded lace over a ginger sack cloth gown. And then she tried the sack cloth gown with ivory pinwheel lace.
Rose dazzles best with cocktail dresses, and her spring collection didn't miss. One of the more stunning -- and a bit of a twist on her modern classic style -- was a silver medallion tank dress that would be perfect for cocktails at the beach. For a more formal cocktail setting, there was the belted bottle green taffeta anorak dress.
Tracy Reese carried on her strong tradition of pretty dresses as well, with an aspiring collection that looked simple and easy-to-wear. But the real strength this season was her use of detailing and colors. Reese, who is sometimes heavy-handed in her use of embellishments, was more controlled, relying more on her designs than frills and layering. Her color choices were refreshing, too. While other designers have been lightening up, Reese was more vibrant than usual, with bright blocks of blues, golds and reds. Reese even dared to mix them. For one outfit, she paired a cherry wrap cardigan with a robin's egg block print skirt.
It was a "don't try this at home moment" that scored.
(Samantha Thompson Smith can be reached at samantha.smith(at)newsobserver.com)
(Distributed by Scripps Howard News Service, www.shns.com.) |
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